Halston

Halston chronicles the life and career of Roy Halston Frowick, one of America’s most influential fashion designers. It traces his journey from humble beginnings in the Midwest to his rise as a fashion icon in New York City, beginning with his early success as a milliner at Bergdorf Goodman, where he gained fame for designing Jacqueline Kennedy’s iconic pillbox hat for the 1961 presidential inauguration.

The film showcases Halston’s meteoric ascent in the fashion world during the 1960s and 1970s. His minimalist designs, characterized by clean lines and luxurious fabrics, revolutionized American fashion and captured the essence of the era. His creations empowered women, allowing them to move freely and confidently in his signature flowing dresses and ultrasuede ensembles.

Frédéric Tcheng’s documentary paints a vivid picture of Halston’s glamorous lifestyle and his association with celebrities, featuring commentary from close friends and collaborators, including Liza Minnelli, Marisa Berenson, and Joel Schumacher. It also introduces viewers to the “Halstonettes,” the designer’s entourage of models who became integral to his brand image.

While celebrating Halston’s artistic achievements, the film examines the challenges he faced as his empire expanded. It details his groundbreaking partnership with JCPenney in the early 1980s, which aimed to bring high fashion to the masses. This move, while innovative, led to backlash from the haute couture world and contributed to his brand’s decline.

The documentary delves into the complex relationship between art and commerce in the fashion industry, portraying Halston’s struggles with corporate control after selling his company and name to Norton Simon. The subsequent takeovers by Esmark and Beatrice further complicated his ability to maintain creative control over his brand.

A balanced perspective on the designer’s personal life is offered, touching on his reputation for lavish parties and his struggles with substance abuse. However, it refrains from sensationalizing these aspects, instead focusing on how they intertwined with his professional life and artistic vision.

The film uses a unique framing device, introducing a fictional archivist character played by Tavi Gevinson. This narrative choice allows for a structured exploration of Halston’s life through archival footage and interviews. While some critics found this approach distracting, others appreciated its attempt to add depth to the storytelling.

Tcheng provides valuable insights into the fashion industry of the 1970s and 1980s, showcasing how Halston’s influence extended beyond clothing to encompass lifestyle and popular culture. It illustrates how he blurred the lines between fashion and celebrity, paving the way for the modern fashion landscape.

The documentary concludes with Halston’s untimely death in 1990 due to AIDS-related complications, reflecting on his lasting impact on American fashion and culture. It presents a nuanced portrait of a complex artist whose vision and ambition both propelled him to great heights and contributed to his downfall.